I have been struggling to write this blog for the past few days. I am not sure how to approach this content without it sounding sensationalized or pitiful. I'm not entirely sure if it's possible, but I gave it my best shot. Here goes:
Christa and I spent last Friday morning at Katutura State Hospital, one of the public hospitals serving residents of Windhoek and surrounding areas. Christa practiced as a nurse at Katutura State for 27 years before resigning to commit all of her time to Mount Sinai Centre. Visiting the hospital was quite surreal and in many ways not what I expected. From what I understand the resources and manpower at private health facilities are significantly greater compared to public health facilities. The private health facilities are essentially serving a limited number of people, likely upper-class individuals such as high-ranking government officials and expatriates. Their financial resources already afford them better health than the vast majority of Namibians. Public health services are available to everyone else who does not have the financial resources for private health care. And their health needs are signifcant. Additionally, many doctors and nurses don't want to practice in the public sector because they are significantly underpaid and under-supported. Working in a private practice or private hospital means better pay, meaning they can pay off their student loans while earning income to support their families. However, they are not reaching the individuals with the greatest health needs. Those who work in the public sector must do so out of sheer compassion and committment to the well-being of their communities. One interesting thing I learned is that the public hospitals have flats (apartments) on their property for their doctors and nurses. Doctors and nurses can live their for reduced prices in order to assist them as they pay off student loans.
In retrospect, I think my visit to Katutura State was not what I expected because Windhoek is more of a westernized city with restaurants, movie theaters, running water, wi-fi, etc. We're not in the middle of nowhere with no resources and a government that has run amok. But on the other hand, Windhoek is also a city of disparities. I have heard that national independence was supposed to alleviate some of these disparities by providing more jobs and better wages. That didn't happen. This disparity is very clear in their public sector health facilities.
We were greeted at the security gate by a guard with a large rifle across his lap. Although I don't see all of the security guards with big rifles it is not uncommon. My boss' son said that many of them don't know how to properly use the rifles and end up shooting themselves in the foot. Good thing he's nearby the hospital. Christa and I walked up to the main entrance and there are people sitting alongside the wall, many with casts on their legs and crutches. We walk inside the hospital and there are no decorations or chairs, and really horrible lighting. It looked completely desolate. There's a security guard standing inside, a line at the reception window, and the casualty unit is on the immediate right. We went first to the pediatric clinic. They don't take appointments so people just come and hope to get in to see the doctor. We went back through the rooms of the pediatric clinic a bit. I felt a bit awkward about this as you could see the patients (there were no doors on the rooms, only walls on the sides to separate them from the next room). Christa would stop to talk to the nurse while the patient was sitting there. I guess patient privacy is different here! I talked to a couple of the nurses working in the pediatric clinic to hear their thoughts about working in the public sector, government support, etc. It was clear that they didn't have all of the necessary resources and supplies. The nurses are not very well-supported either, often working alone for extended periods of time. The nurses that I spoke with also expressed concern that the people who are making the decisions and policies do not know what is going on at the ground-level. They just make decisions based on what they think is best or whatever the trend might be.
Next we went to the ARV (antiretroviral therapy) clinic where people who are HIV-positive or at risk of becoming HIV-positive can go to receive services (i.e. testing, counseling with the social worker, etc.). The ARV clinic is divided into two sections, one for adults and another for children. We visited the children's ARV clinic where we saw some of the Mount Sinai Centre kids there for follow-up appointments. Up until 18 months of age, babies are tested for HIV with the DNA PCR virologic test. Blood is drawn from a spot on their heel and placed in five different spots on a paper which is then sent to the lab for testing. It was amazing how quietly the kids sat in the waiting area, while there was nothing to do, no toys to play with, pictures to look at. And they were all there for the same reason: HIV/AIDS, something I think that majority of the kids don't grasp. I asked one of the nurses in this department at what age they start explaining to the kids their HIV status. She said age 10. I didn't get around to asking what kind of counseling support they have for kids. Do they tell the kid, "hey you're HIV-positive" and then send them on their way? We also visited the maternity ward. I know that for some HIV-positive women, a c-section may be recommended to reduce the transmission of HIV from mother to child during birth. Christa informed me that the hospital does not have the resources to perform c-sections. They cannot afford the anesthesiology or instruments necessary for a c-section.
One thing that really struck me as we visited the various clinics was that there were a lot of staff sitting around, not doing much of anything. I know that this is not the case, but it was very startling to see the nurses sitting around with newspapers while patients waited for care. Perhaps it was because they were waiting on a doctor for a consultation. It just struck me as odd given the sheer need for health services and yet the nurses seemed so laxadasical about work. I know that what I perceive may not be the case. There is definitely a cultural context around work and work ethic here that I have not entirely put my finger on.
I also have to say that it was hard to visit the hospital. I think that, as a white person, and a white woman, I receive many looks of skepticism. I can respect this as they don't know what my intentions are, they don't know me, and what not, but it doesn't make it any more comfortable. I was glad to be with Christa. I think that gives me some sort of validation, especially as she knew all of the staff at the hospital.
I will end this on a positive note. Visits to the hospital are relatively cheap, approximately $1.50 - $2.00 USD. However, this is still a significant cost to many of the families who visit the public hospitals, especially if they have to go regularly for care. Despite the limited resources at the hospital, they never turn a patient away from care or treatment because of their inability to pay.
I arranged a last minute camping trip over the 4th of July with some friends at the guest house, Amanda and Mark, and Amanda's co-worker, Kaylin. We went Northeast of Windhoek, to the Kalahari area, a part of Namibia that Chad and I will not get to. We camped at a wonderful guest farm, Harnas, that I heard fellow travellers talk about. Apparently Brangelina (that's Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, Dad) is a big supporter of Harnas. Harnas rescues and fosters injured and abandoned wild animals, including baboons, lions, giraffes, oryx, cheetah, leopard, cows, mongoose, bat-eared fox, crocodile, etc. etc. They also had 47 cats and probably a dozen dogs. Upon arriving we set up camp and watched springbok and oryx wander around. There was also a giraffe, Klippie, who had free reign of the place. Klippie was not afraid of people and came right over to visit the campsite, smell around the kitchen area, and even nuzzle my sweatshirt on the table. We were a bit alarmed because it's a big animal and we didn't want to scare her. While Klippie is definitely an animal to be respected we did find out later that we could 
pet her. She was orphaned and Harnas took her in within her first week of life. That afternoon we went on a feeding tour and watched the volunteers at Harnas distribute meat to the various animals. The cheetahs were amazing as they were prowling around the fence purring and talking like cats, waiting for their hunk of meat. I also enjoyed the baboons although I understand they can be quite dangerous. I was allowed to hold their hand through the fence. I extended my hand, somewhat close to the fence, and they would come over and reach through the fence to touch you. I was literally sitting there and the baboon and I were stroking one another's hands. Their hands do look very human-like with knuckles, nails, and all. They also pulled on my fingers with their very strong grip. It was incredible! We also saw 5 six-month old lions and 3 year-old lions. They were all raised by dogs who faithfully stayed in the pens to supervise.
s of the city centre directing people which way to go. Despite the fact that this may have been a signifcant state visit I found it quite alarming to see their security measures. It was almost as if they were prepared for civilians breaking out into riots. It seemed as though the men would not have thought twice about shooting anyone. I have heard that police and military members here don't care about the results of their shooting relative to the severity of the crime. A few months ago two men were caught stealing a woman's purse and were shot. One died immediately and the other was in critical condition. I am glad I don't live somewhere where armed men stand on the corners with huge guns. Speaking of politics and presidents, check out Obama's newest and youngest fan!
Two of Christa's former clients from Mt. Sinai Centre prepared a traditional Owambo meal for myself, one of Liz's Fulbright friends, and her guests. The Owambo people make up the largest ethnic group in Namibia. Preparing traditional meals is a source of income for these two women. It is a way for them to do something themselves in order to provide for their families instead of relying on donors and NGOs.
ity). I believe I will have another opportunity to visit these women for a traditional meal when Chad arrives. The kids that lived in this area were delightful. They were all smiling and 
music playing in the taxi does not help. Taxi drivers also do not know street names here. So, I, the foreigner, find myself giving them directions to the guest house. At first I thought they were trying to pull one over on me but then I learned that no one in Windhoek knows street names. Watching the taxi queues is also quite interesting. They really work to get passengers in their cars, sometimes even rearranging passengers. I have frequently heard "Sista, sista -- do you need a ride?" Here is a picture of the taxi queue at UNAM. They are not allowed on campus so they all wait outside the gates, juggling for customers to fill their cars.
farenheit and sunny. Perfect weather! UNAM is unlike any campus I have seen. It is out on the edge of town. To get in and out of campus you must pass a guard at the gate. He doesn't ask any questions, he just lifts the gate. Campus was quiet as the students are in examinations. However, I did get to meet a couple of second and fourth year social work students. One of them I will be visiting at the organization where she is interning-it is an organization that works with battered women. I am very interested to see what the cultural attitude and beliefs are here around domestic violence. Evaline was very lovely and I am excited to show her family around Minneapolis/St. Paul when the come for Evaline's PhD program in August.
picture of a poster they have promoting HIV/AIDS testing and a mural on their property. After this "meeting" we stopped by a garden at a youth center around the corner. A lovely woman named Mariana gave us a tour and talked about how their gardening practices. I think Christa and I got some good ideas, including building a table and putting soil, plastic tubing for draining, etc. for plants. They also did some hydroponic gardening. I was reassured by their practices and believe that this may be a good alternative for Mt. Sinai Centre. Christa is keen on this as well but we are still trying to get a soil analysis. Here is a picture of Mt. Sinai Centre and my boss and co-worker, Tusu.
Travelers are a special breed of people. I have been reminded of that the past few days at Puccini Guest House, where I am residing during my stay in Windhoek. I have met fellow travelers and volunteers from Brazil, Austria, Germany, the Netherlands, and Uganda. And they are kind -- sharing traveling tips, funny stories, meals, and warm seats by the fire at night. When it gets lonely, these people remind you why you travel in the first place. I made acquaintances with three gentlemen from Rio de Janiero, Brazil -- Rodgrigo, Marco, and Luciano. They are filming a documentary about 13 Brazilian women who left their homes in Brazil to live in other parts of the world. These men are funny and kind, and they loved to dance! I think I most certainly made a fool of myself on the dance floor trying to keep up with them. But they have moved on to their next filming destinations -- Kenya and Sweden. It is already quieter without them around. But, having never been to Brazil, or South America for that matter, we have received an invitation, so Chad pack your bags!! If you are interested in seeing a clip of their documentary you can go to: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nw8_Gw8NiAo (it is in Portuguese!) Here is a pic with Amanda (my neighbor at Puccini), Rodrigo, Marco, and Luciano.
to get out of the city. The sky was bright blue (I haven't seen a cloud since I've been here) and I could not hear anything except for the chirping birds and the kids chattering away in the car. This was also my first time seeing some of the native wildlife. Our first sighting was immediately inside the gate to the game reserve. There was a line of about 8 giraffes following each other over a ridge in the distance. Later on the drive we saw the giraffes close up and I got a picture of the baby. We 
also saw warthog, baboons, blue wildebeest (photo on right), some kind of mongoose, and eland. There were also a couple of different kinds of antelope-like animals--I have no clue what they were! At the game reserve you can also get out of the car and walk around. We did a couple of small walks and Gwen and Reid kept saying "this is prime snake territory." I was terrified to be walking at the end behind their littlest girl. God knows she wasn't going to hold me when I jumped up on her back!! We successfully made it out of the park seeing only the animals I wanted to see.
and Louisiana combined. Boasting a population of approximately 2.2 million, Namibia is also one of the least dense countries in the entire world with 2.1 persons per square kilometer.