Experiencing Life & Food in Katutura

Two of Christa's former clients from Mt. Sinai Centre prepared a traditional Owambo meal for myself, one of Liz's Fulbright friends, and her guests. The Owambo people make up the largest ethnic group in Namibia. Preparing traditional meals is a source of income for these two women. It is a way for them to do something themselves in order to provide for their families instead of relying on donors and NGOs.

But, I felt so stuck upon leaving. The women were resourceful and had taught themselves new skills to ease the strain of poverty and generate income for their families. But it will never be enough to bring them out of poverty and life in Katutura. And from my Western perspective I see fairly abject poverty in Katutura. Some people are living in what appear to be run-down stucco boxes. Others live in tin sheds with a bathroom out back and maybe one lightbulb for light. For water they have to purchase a card and then they can retrieve water from "down the way." A lot of people don't have access to water because they cannot afford it.

Right or wrong, it made me feel like there was nothing I could do, nothing Mount Sinai could do, to change the conditions for these women and their children. I left really feeling like this income-generating project did very little. As my mind started to reel I visited the questions that I knew would arise at one point or another: How do we facilitate change? Is it our place to facilitate change in a country that is not our own? Who is to say what is best for another country, for another population? And this change, these improvements...are they possible? Why can't this country lift itself out on its own? And if they could progress and become a developed nation, what would the world look like? Is it possible to have a world where every nation is a developed nation? Is it even appropriate to think that they should model themselves after the United States because that is what progress, hard work, and development look like?

My limited experience in Namibia thus far has led me to believe that there needs to be a significant structural overhaul in Namibia. I have heard people suggest that independence in 1990 didn't bring that much change for the people. Independence was supposed to bring a growing economy and more jobs. Relatively few people have jobs and most jobs are not that well-paying. In talking with my boss' son he relays similar sentiments. He suggests that many politicians are stuck on the past - talking about revolution and apartheid. They are not moving forward. He wonders when will they move forward and make the progress the citizens deserve to see and experience.

On the other hand, I was glad for the opportunity to experience a traditional Owambo meal and see how these women and their children live. The food was interesting. I didn't gag and for that I am proud. I'm not sure that I have all of the names correct but I tried mopane caterpillars and mahangu (see pic above, sorry for the poor quality). I believe I will have another opportunity to visit these women for a traditional meal when Chad arrives. The kids that lived in this area were delightful. They were all smiling and
very fascinated by white people's hair -- I don't think I have ever had so many hands in my hair before! The kids also loved having their pictures taken. They were complete hams, jumping and posing in front of the camera at any opportunity. Here are a couple of my favorites! And yes, they are posing under cow lung drying on the line.

General reflections

Transportation
Walking, driving, riding....it is all nuts! I very quickly learned that pedestrians have absolutely no right away, even when there is a walk signal at the traffic light. Of course I am still trying to figure out from what direction I need to look for traffic (they drive on the left side of the road over here). The cars also have little respect for traffic lights and other cars on the road -- well maybe it's just the taxis. I have been watching them stop in the middle of the road talking to potential passengers when a taxi from behind them pulls into the lane of traffic going the other direction just to get around. As a passenger it makes for a very tedious car ride. The loud techno and dance music playing in the taxi does not help. Taxi drivers also do not know street names here. So, I, the foreigner, find myself giving them directions to the guest house. At first I thought they were trying to pull one over on me but then I learned that no one in Windhoek knows street names. Watching the taxi queues is also quite interesting. They really work to get passengers in their cars, sometimes even rearranging passengers. I have frequently heard "Sista, sista -- do you need a ride?" Here is a picture of the taxi queue at UNAM. They are not allowed on campus so they all wait outside the gates, juggling for customers to fill their cars.

UNAM
I met Evaline this morning at UNAM. We met in front of the library. I don't think she had a hard time picking me out as she quickly stated that not only was I the only white person but also the only one not wearing a jersey. Why would I wear a jersey? It's about 75 degrees farenheit and sunny. Perfect weather! UNAM is unlike any campus I have seen. It is out on the edge of town. To get in and out of campus you must pass a guard at the gate. He doesn't ask any questions, he just lifts the gate. Campus was quiet as the students are in examinations. However, I did get to meet a couple of second and fourth year social work students. One of them I will be visiting at the organization where she is interning-it is an organization that works with battered women. I am very interested to see what the cultural attitude and beliefs are here around domestic violence. Evaline was very lovely and I am excited to show her family around Minneapolis/St. Paul when the come for Evaline's PhD program in August.


Aerobics
That's right. I've gone to two aerobics classes now! Wow, they are a hoot. I am comforted by the fact that some of the choreography is similar to aerobics choreography in the U.S. But my fellow aerobics classmates are hysterical. When no one can figure out what is going on they basically start dancing and making up their own moves. They have been very welcoming of Amanda and me. They even played a joke on us pretending that the class was only taught in German. We were about to hightail it out of there when they said that!


Mt. Sinai Centre
I tagged along with Christa to a meeting at Catholic AIDS Action this morning at 8:30. We waited an hour and only three people (Christ and I included) of 30 showed up. The meeting facilitator kept saying "Africa time, Africa time." Christa wasn't having it -- we left. But I got to meet a couple of staff people from the Catholic AIDS Action. Here is a picture of a poster they have promoting HIV/AIDS testing and a mural on their property. After this "meeting" we stopped by a garden at a youth center around the corner. A lovely woman named Mariana gave us a tour and talked about how their gardening practices. I think Christa and I got some good ideas, including building a table and putting soil, plastic tubing for draining, etc. for plants. They also did some hydroponic gardening. I was reassured by their practices and believe that this may be a good alternative for Mt. Sinai Centre. Christa is keen on this as well but we are still trying to get a soil analysis. Here is a picture of Mt. Sinai Centre and my boss and co-worker, Tusu.

Making Friends & Acquaintances

Travelers are a special breed of people. I have been reminded of that the past few days at Puccini Guest House, where I am residing during my stay in Windhoek. I have met fellow travelers and volunteers from Brazil, Austria, Germany, the Netherlands, and Uganda. And they are kind -- sharing traveling tips, funny stories, meals, and warm seats by the fire at night. When it gets lonely, these people remind you why you travel in the first place. I made acquaintances with three gentlemen from Rio de Janiero, Brazil -- Rodgrigo, Marco, and Luciano. They are filming a documentary about 13 Brazilian women who left their homes in Brazil to live in other parts of the world. These men are funny and kind, and they loved to dance! I think I most certainly made a fool of myself on the dance floor trying to keep up with them. But they have moved on to their next filming destinations -- Kenya and Sweden. It is already quieter without them around. But, having never been to Brazil, or South America for that matter, we have received an invitation, so Chad pack your bags!! If you are interested in seeing a clip of their documentary you can go to: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nw8_Gw8NiAo (it is in Portuguese!) Here is a pic with Amanda (my neighbor at Puccini), Rodrigo, Marco, and Luciano.

I also made acquaintances with a lovley French-German woman on Friday. Anne has been living in the United States for the past six years completing her PhD in Genetics. Having already completed a doctor of veterinary medicine she is now in Namibia setting up a lab at the Cheetah Conservation Foundation (CCF). When Chad and I visit the CCF in Otjiwarango we will have a lovely guide and maybe even a chance to pet the big kitties!

My other new acquaintance really makes me feel right at home. He is a wire-haired daschund, named Morris. Morris is particularly rambunctious (almost rivaling Tuc) as he is 6 months old. Morris has been visiting the guests of Puccini House on the dining room tables at breakfast in the morning and running away with food, sandles, and sweaters. He loves to give kisses right on the mouth too. Morris needs to learn some manners. Here is a pic of Morris and I, but don't show this to Bella--she would be very jealous!

Gwen and Reid took me out to dinner again on Saturday night and introduced me to their friends Larkin and Kelly. Everyone but Gwen has midwestern roots and grew up in Iowa. They took me to a popular restaurant/watering hole, called Joe's Beerhouse, where different kinds of game dominate the dinner menu. I have been impressed by everyone's willingness to try different meats -- oryx, zebra, gemsbok, springbok, and crocodile. I learned that Gwen and Kelly have been visiting a local orphanage and taking the kids to activities. I am excited, and quite nervous, to visit the orphanage with them. Gwen and Kelly said that the kids mainly want to be held and that they are very excited that someone is willing to do activities with them. I fear that this will be harder than seeing the kids at Mount Sinai Centre.

Tomorrow I visit the University of Namibia's School of Social Work. There I will meet future University of Minnesota, School of Social Work PhD student -- Evaline. I am excited to see the School of Social Work and meet some of their students. I would love to sit in on a class and see if there are many differences in curriculum, teaching style, homework, etc. A new friend of mine whom I met through Professor Lightfoot, Joy, drove me out to the University of Namibia (UNAM) the other day. It was kind of out in the middle of nowhere, yet many people were walking there. The entrance to the school was gated and monitored by guards. Taxi drivers lurked around the gates waiting for patrons to fill their car, talking and gesticulating quickly. I am excited to get a closer peak at the school tomorrow.

First days of work

Any idealistic visions that I had of working in Africa have definitely flown straight out the door by now. And I don't think I was too idealistic about it in the beginning. Upon walking into Mt. Sinai Centre for the first time I see that they have next to nothing. The building is brand new and beautiful, and relatively empty. The City of Windhoek donated the property to Mt. Sinai Centre and apparently the site was previously a toxic dumping ground. I'm sure that toxic chemicals are superb for women's immune systems that are compromised by HIV. My boss' office isn't really an office. There is no desk, no computer, files are strewn about the floor, as are supplies. The main room in which she is working right now has a small table with one working computer and projects laying around. The other computer that was meant for this room was stolen by the man she thought was going to fix it. The bathroom does have soap which I find miraculous-not many of the bathrooms which I have seen so far have soap. I should also explain (Mom and Dad, please skip over this next sentence) that the grounds are surrounded by barbed wire fence and patrolled by a young man who stays awake all night to watch the building. He works for free but is happy to because he feels that my boss, Christa, provides things for him that he does not have in his tin shed that sits on the edge of the Mount Sinai Centre property - i.e. a toilet, electricity, water. When Christa can, she throws him $300 namibian dollars which is approximately $40 american dollars a month.

I begin my work on Monday with a briefing from Christa. She tells me all about the history of Mt. Sinai Centre, current projects, partnerships, threats, and challenges. I listened intently, trying to really hear what she was saying. I even start to think to myself about the theory and program development skills that I learned at school. It actually applies!! But, when we get to talking about the centre's threats and challenges Christa gets quite upset. She feels that funders (i.e. USAID and Global Fund) are trying to "push her down" and make her organization's work their own work. Part of me thinks, "yeah, this is the way donors work-they have a lot of stipulations," but at the same time I am trying to listen to her (legitimate) concerns. She also feels like she is being deceived-a local organization who has something to do with USAID wants her to lie and say that the centre has a kids club. The first lady of Namibia has also used information from Mt. Sinai Centre's projects in a brochure without crediting the organization. The first lady of Namibia is also the patron of Mt. Sinai Centre, meaning Christa has to proceed carefully in handling this matter. Christa is trying to be straightforward and I believe, just wants credit where credit is due. However, I am noticing a distinct cultural difference in how organizations operate and how they perceive funding from Western organizations. I am not sure how to proceed, especially when she needs a steady source of funding (if there is such a thing).

In the meantime I am working on some logistics for the centre. They do not have a clear mission statement, vision, or measurable objectives. I am trying to set the centre up when they apply for funding in the future. I am also trying to give them some legitimate ways in which to measure the success of the centre. An evaluation of their work will be critical for potential funders and current funders. At the same time, I am amazed at the record keeping and detail that Christa has gone through. She keeps a file of everything-any letter of appreciation, receipt, referral, etc. She is very thorough.

Tomorrow a woman is coming to teach some of the mothers at the centre sewing skills. Christa is working to give the mothers some skills that will make them more employable, self-reliant, and confident. We are also in the beginning stages of starting a garden that will be used to grow vegetables. This garden will not only provide nutrition for the mothers and their children but it also serves a money-making opportunity. In the coming weeks Christa also wants me to go the hospital where she used to be a nurse to see how hospitals are working with HIV/AIDS patients. I am very interested to see alternative perspectives of the issue-there are clearly a lot of people and organizations working on this issue. And I can't yet tell how much cooperation there is amongst them.

My brain is done churning for now.

Acclimating to a new environment

June 7, 2009

After almost 20 hours on the plane and one night in Johannesburg I have arrived safely in Windhoek. My "boss" Christa picked me up at the airport with her sister-in-law. Christa was as nice as could be and instantly made me feel at ease. I of course managed to get car sick on my way into town, almost vomiting on the lawn of this woman with whom Christa and her sister-in-law had to stop to do business. Classy, Brooke. I was happy to arrive at the guest house to unload my luggage and finally get a bit of rest. My attempt at rest was unsuccessful though so I worked my way into the communal area of the guest house. I met a young Namibian woman who was also a guest at the guest house. She asked me if I wanted to go into town and I thought "what the heck, I need to get groceries sometime." This young woman dressed to the nines to go into town and I kept insisting that I only needed to visit the grocery store and the cell phone store. She had a purple satin shirt on with a tight jean skirt, stiletto heels, and some serious bling. I finally ditched her by convincing her that I had to get back to the guest house to work. But boy, did it take some convincing!

The city center was interesting. It is dominated by strip malls and people loitering around, especially teenagers. It was also horribly loud and people were driving like maniacs. One thing is for sure - pedestrians do not have right away! I definitely started to get a bit of culture shock. The languages around me were not English, I was the only white person and I'm sure I looked like a tourist. Upon getting back to the guest house I definitely wondered what I had gotten myself into.

Saturday morning I woke up feeling a bit better. I met a young German woman at the guest house and we went into town together to a museum and to the craft center where there are lots of local crafts. That afternoon I had plans to meet friends of my professor for dinner-Gwen and Reid. They picked me up with their three kids and took me on a tour of the city before we stopped at Heinitzburg Castle for an adult beverage. An old German castle on a hill, it has a great view overlooking the city. After that they took me out to dinner at this busy eclectic restaurant called O'Portuga.

Gwen and Reid were gracious hosts again as they picked me up Sunday morning to take me to the private game reserve, Daan Viljoen, just 20k out of the city. It was wonderful to get out of the city. The sky was bright blue (I haven't seen a cloud since I've been here) and I could not hear anything except for the chirping birds and the kids chattering away in the car. This was also my first time seeing some of the native wildlife. Our first sighting was immediately inside the gate to the game reserve. There was a line of about 8 giraffes following each other over a ridge in the distance. Later on the drive we saw the giraffes close up and I got a picture of the baby. We also saw warthog, baboons, blue wildebeest (photo on right), some kind of mongoose, and eland. There were also a couple of different kinds of antelope-like animals--I have no clue what they were! At the game reserve you can also get out of the car and walk around. We did a couple of small walks and Gwen and Reid kept saying "this is prime snake territory." I was terrified to be walking at the end behind their littlest girl. God knows she wasn't going to hold me when I jumped up on her back!! We successfully made it out of the park seeing only the animals I wanted to see.

Driving out to Daan Viljoen I got a better view of Windhoek and its vast disparities. The city itself has a small city center and is surrounded by different neighborhoods and further afield, township-like communities. Some of the neighborhoods close to the city center are quite wealthy and home to expatriates who work for the CDC, various embassies, and USAID, among others. As we moved further from Windhoek the houses became tin settlements where I am guessing there was no electricity. People were walking along the side of the road--to where, I don't know. Tomorrow marks my first day of work. My exposure to these disparities will become increasingly evident. But I am excited to jump in and learn more about the work that Mount Sinai does and how I can best help my boss.

Windhoek, Namibia

June 7, 2009

I am spending the summer in Windhoek, Namibia working on a maternal-HIV project with a non-profit organization called Mount Sinai Center. I was lucky enough to be connected with this opportunity via a professor (Liz) at the School of Social Work who spent a year in Windhoek on a Fulbright Award and taught at the Univeristy of Namibia. Liz was very fond of Mount Sinai and thought it would be a wonderful place for me to gain both international public health and social work experience. During my time in Namibia I will be staying in the capital at Puccini's Guest House. I can't wait to get out of the capital and see the rest of the country--it is supposed to be a hidden gem!

"Where is Namibia?" For those of you wondering, and trust me, I wondered too, I have included a small map to give you an idea of the location. Namibia is approximatey the size of Texas and Louisiana combined. Boasting a population of approximately 2.2 million, Namibia is also one of the least dense countries in the entire world with 2.1 persons per square kilometer.


A little history lesson: During the 1880's Namibia was annexed as South West Africa by the Germans. It was not until 1915 that South West Africa came under rule of South Africa. While the struggle for independence occurred over many years it was in 1960 that South West Africa People's Organization (SWAPO) formed with the goal of gaining independence for South West Africa. Many of the SWAPO revolutionaries spent time imprisoned on Robben Island (where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned). The president of SWAPO, Sam Nujoma, was exiled for 29 years. In 1990 Namibia gained independence and Nujoma became the country's first president. He served three terms as president of Namibia (1990-2005). In 2007 he retired his post as SWAPO president. The SWAPO party is still in office.