Monday, June 22, 2009

Experiencing Life & Food in Katutura

Two of Christa's former clients from Mt. Sinai Centre prepared a traditional Owambo meal for myself, one of Liz's Fulbright friends, and her guests. The Owambo people make up the largest ethnic group in Namibia. Preparing traditional meals is a source of income for these two women. It is a way for them to do something themselves in order to provide for their families instead of relying on donors and NGOs.

But, I felt so stuck upon leaving. The women were resourceful and had taught themselves new skills to ease the strain of poverty and generate income for their families. But it will never be enough to bring them out of poverty and life in Katutura. And from my Western perspective I see fairly abject poverty in Katutura. Some people are living in what appear to be run-down stucco boxes. Others live in tin sheds with a bathroom out back and maybe one lightbulb for light. For water they have to purchase a card and then they can retrieve water from "down the way." A lot of people don't have access to water because they cannot afford it.

Right or wrong, it made me feel like there was nothing I could do, nothing Mount Sinai could do, to change the conditions for these women and their children. I left really feeling like this income-generating project did very little. As my mind started to reel I visited the questions that I knew would arise at one point or another: How do we facilitate change? Is it our place to facilitate change in a country that is not our own? Who is to say what is best for another country, for another population? And this change, these improvements...are they possible? Why can't this country lift itself out on its own? And if they could progress and become a developed nation, what would the world look like? Is it possible to have a world where every nation is a developed nation? Is it even appropriate to think that they should model themselves after the United States because that is what progress, hard work, and development look like?

My limited experience in Namibia thus far has led me to believe that there needs to be a significant structural overhaul in Namibia. I have heard people suggest that independence in 1990 didn't bring that much change for the people. Independence was supposed to bring a growing economy and more jobs. Relatively few people have jobs and most jobs are not that well-paying. In talking with my boss' son he relays similar sentiments. He suggests that many politicians are stuck on the past - talking about revolution and apartheid. They are not moving forward. He wonders when will they move forward and make the progress the citizens deserve to see and experience.

On the other hand, I was glad for the opportunity to experience a traditional Owambo meal and see how these women and their children live. The food was interesting. I didn't gag and for that I am proud. I'm not sure that I have all of the names correct but I tried mopane caterpillars and mahangu (see pic above, sorry for the poor quality). I believe I will have another opportunity to visit these women for a traditional meal when Chad arrives. The kids that lived in this area were delightful. They were all smiling and
very fascinated by white people's hair -- I don't think I have ever had so many hands in my hair before! The kids also loved having their pictures taken. They were complete hams, jumping and posing in front of the camera at any opportunity. Here are a couple of my favorites! And yes, they are posing under cow lung drying on the line.


3 comments:

  1. Oh my gosh. That's like Fear Factor food! Bravo to you for trying it. How was it????? Great questions you have there but I believe that everyone has certain rights, no matter what country they live in. That would be enough food, protective housing (for warmth) and access to clean water. No one can live and survive without those things. That's why I have a problem with how much we have. There is more than enough in the world food-wise so that no one should ever be hungry.

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  2. I KNEW that was cow lung.

    Hey Brooke, no surprise that you're doing great work and asking smart and challenging questions. Thanks for chronicling your time in Namibia - I'm enjoying the blog.

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  3. I like animals. I like natural history. The travel bit is not the important bit. The travel bit is what you have to do in order to go and look at animals.
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